This kind of thinking has worked pretty well for him in surfing so far. Now he’s trying to incorporate it into his life beyond surfing. “You know, it’s like knowing which thoughts are important to action and which are just thoughts.”
Surfing is not the most natural competitive sport in the first place. It’s mainly about you and the waves — about being with yourself. However, the sport has sought broader recognition since it almost began. It can be traced back to the 1920s. At the time, Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku was known as the father of modern surfing and was thinking of surfing becoming an Olympic event. It will take nearly 100 more years for the IOC to officially approve the sport in 2016, four more years, and another year due to the pandemic, eventually arriving at the Tokyo match. .. That’s how surfing reached the Olympics.
As for Florence, you can start in 1992 when he was born on Oahu. He grew up on the North Shore on the other side of the pipeline, one of the most famous surfing breaks in the world. When he was still a boy, his neighbor Kelly Slater said he could know the ocean “as we’ve never seen”. Florence hadn’t won anything at that time. But the Hawaiians knew. And Florence has begun to win, including the 2016 and 2017 consecutive WSL titles.
But the story of how Florence actually participated in the Olympics is actually different and even more interesting.I think someone should make a movie about it, but in reality someone Tokyo Rising, Documentary Florence released last year. It’s the story of his 2019 season, which begins with him recovering from an injury-the tears of ACL continued in Bali in 2018 after a particularly reckless match of post-competition surfing. He rehabilitates his knees. He is in good shape at the beginning of the season and arrives in Australia. He completely abandons the tour halfway through Brazil, where he completely abandons the same ACL and undergoes surgery.
The story was supposed to end there. Florence sitting on the couch and many other American surfers chasing his WSL points, along with them is the Olympic berth with the top two slots of each country. Florence forgot the tour and went home. He took care of his bees. I rode his bike around the island. I made a big voyage trip. Avoided surfboards. But as the fall progressed, Florence also realized that he wasn’t completely out of the Olympics. As his main competitor, his friend, and mentor, he has built a big lead in the WSL rankings, which refused to decline altogether. Kelly Slater was unable to take full advantage of Florence’s absence. In the end, it became clear to both men that the Olympic spot would probably come down to the pipe in December. The event ran across a few feet of sand from where Florence grew up, and he still lives there. “I feel pretty good,” Florence thought. “I know most things aren’t ready, but I take it every day.” He set a few goals for himself. He said maybe when the time came, he would just row. If he didn’t like it, he probably wouldn’t even catch the waves.
That day has come. He rowed “windy and bumpy”. “Forget about your knees,” he told himself.
“I couldn’t get around the boundaries very well,” Florence recalls. “The straight line was like mine going there.” But that’s what the pipe wants. Brave and straight. He won the barrel and advanced to the quarterfinals. In the tournament, it was enough distance to keep the slater down and stay in one of the top two qualifiers.
“It’s scary,” says Florence. “Because you have no control over what the waves do when you are in those big barrels.” But Florence has a way to know anyway. His knee survived. He did that too. To the Olympics.
Watch now:
Olympic surfer John John Florence analyzes movie surfing scene
A version of this story was originally published in the June / July 2021 issue under the title “Dream Team”.
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